Kargil , Ladakh

Kargil lies on National Highway 1D which connects Srinagar to Leh , it is on the banks of Suru river , the name is from two words “Gar” means in local language “Any Where” and “Khil” means central place “where any one can stay”. Total population of Kagil 80% follows the Shia faith of  Islam and are inhabited in Kargil, Drass and lower Suru valley, Tibetan Bon Buddhist are mostly in Zanskar valley with small population in Shergol, Mulbek and Upper Suru valley.  There are about 4%  Hindus and Sikhs . Most of the people are of Burig and Balti of Tibetan origin mixed with Dard , Mon and Aryan people.

Kargil City view from Leh-Srinagar Highway


The Tibetan influence is seen in Kargil and Leh people , the Islam came here with Persian influence which has lots Persian words , phrases and even the religious songs in their language , the marriages are solemnize with common rituals of  Buddhist and Islam customs .

Mt. Nun & Mt. Kun from Suru valley trekkers hot spot


It was a transit point of caravans on their way to and from China, Tibet, Yarken and Kashmir till 1949, but since 1974 with the influx of tourists the region has been replaced as center for tourism related activities. Tourists traveling between Zanskar, Leh and Srinagar stop for  a night stay , before proceeding for onward  journey.
People visit Kargil with the memories of 1999 India and Pakistan conflict as it lies very close to the line of control .

Bomb Shell splinters holes fired from Pakistan


The Suru river flows through Kargil , Suru valley extends till the Pensi-la where there is a famous peaks of Nun and Kun , Karaste kar is a small village on Leh highway where 9 meter tall rock carved statue of Maitriya Buddha attracts the tourists from far places . There are other magnificent Stupas and rock carved statues to be seen in Suru valley . Most of the trekkers take a hike to  the Nun- Kun view saddle (3810mtr. ) in the Parkachik ridge. It is a  3 hours of walking along the slopes  overlooking the fertile valley below.

Pakistani post was captured and pushed behind this peak


The road connection from Srinagar is open from May till November , rest of the year there is a heavy snow in the Zoji-la , this area is cut off by road in winters from rest of India , the Indian Air Force  operates few flights to help the local people to come in out of the valley. summers are warm with cold nights , Drass which is 56 km from Kargil is coldest inhabited place in India. The only  road link to Zanskar  is from Kargil .
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Lakhpat City, Kutch,Gujarat

Lakhpat once a port on the Arabian sea at the junction of Kori creek and Rann of Kutch. It was abandoned after the 1819 AD strong earthquake which changed the flow of  Sindhu (Indus) River  towards further North and a natural dam known as the Allahbund  was formed due to which the Great Rann got dried up . It is in north-west corner of Kutch is an almost dilapidated old town that speaks of a glorious past. Lakhpat, the literal meaning of which is city of millionaires is now nothing, but a small village that is inhabited by a few hundreds and serves as an outpost of the India Border Security Force ( BSF) facing Pakistan. If weather is clear one can see the notorious Harami Nalah from the post

Bhuj waro Nako , Entrance Lakhpat town , Kutch, Gujarat


Lakhpat is surrounded by a 7 km fortified wall , believed to have been built by Rao Lakhpatji in the middle of the 18th century and extended further under the supervision of the Army Commander Fatheh Mohmmad in 1801 AD. to defend the kingdom as well as the port from invasions by Sindhi rulers, the walls of the fort are still intact for the most part. The Bhuj Waro Nako , gate opens towards Bhuj , collection on Toll both here  from the  visitors and traders was 1 Lakh Kori to the Lakhpat town , it was well guarded by soldiers. Near Lakhpat was Koteri (Kotri) a landing place on the bank of river  Sindhu ( Indus ) where  ferryboats regularly sailed ,  loaded with cattle and merchandise. From Koteri, the goods were transported on camels to the eastern part of the Indus delta, and distributed throughout the inhabited districts of the Thar.
 

Lakhpat , fortified walls , Rann Kutch Kori creek side

Guru Nanak Dev ji stayed at Lakhpat  during his trips to Mecca and Medina (Saudi Arabia). This place was a  seat of the Udasi Panth until 1972 under the Last Sevadar Baba Mool Dass Hari Dass . ( Udasi Panth  was founded by Sri Chand son of Guru Nanak Dev Ji  ) . Rare treasures are  preserved  including the “Charan Paduka” – Khadvas (wooden footwear) that belonged to Guru Nanak Dev ji.  The present structure is plastered and painted but old wooden doors, pillars and roof are intact and converted into a Gurudwara , there are few lines scripted in LariGurmukhi on walls, it came out when layers of plaster was removed, this script is no more in use. In 16th century it was an important departure point for Muslims making Hajj to Medina and Mecca  at that time Lakhpat was known as “Basta Bander”

Gurudwara Lakhpat , Kutch, Gujarat


A Sufi Saint Pir Gaus Mohammad equally respected by Hindu and Muslim community A Thirteenth Hijra century poet- lived in Lakhpat, Kutch, Sindh. He passed away in 1873 AD / 1290 AH  he was known as a great healer and for his songs about Lord Krishna. Pir Manthar Shah was a contemporary poet and an associate to Pir Ghous Mohammed also lived in Lakhpat . A black stone structure is having beautiful carvings ,  It is an octagonal, domed structure with four entrances, the inner walls are decorated with verses from the Koran using beautiful calligraphy.
 

                                                                       
Pir Gaus Mohammad Tomb / Kuba

There another beautiful white stone carvings  tomb of  Hazrat Pir Abu Turab Kadri with Central big dome and eight smaller domes , beautiful wooden carved doors and Jalis , he died in 1236 AH

Tomb of Hazrat Pir Shah Abu Turab Kadri


 

Hatkeshwar Temple Lakhpat , Gujarat


Hatkeshwar Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva  houses fossilized shells . There are three Talavs (Water bodies) inside the fort  Brahmasar, Nagrai and Champasar ,  the first  two when over flowed  fill the third. All the Talavs receives fresh rainwater and has been a source of drinking water the first two Talav were used for bathing and washing purposes. Champasar Talav water was used for cattle and animals .
There are about 70 Muslim families and 10 Hindu families  living in Lakhpat and all Muslim and Hindu festivals are celebrated together , in particular the Navaratri festival when the entire Lakhpat performs the Dandia dances together for eight nights as told  by Abu Bhai only postman of  Lakhpat , till 2005 there was a post office which is now shifted to Gadudi 20 km away, most of the families are in fishing and few are in agriculture job .
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Kalo Dungar Rann Kutch , Gujarat

Kalo Dungar or Black Hill also called Panchchhamayi is situated 25 Km from Khavada and  97 km from Bhuj , it is about 460 meters, highest point  in the Rann of Kutch , one can have a panoramic view of the vastness of the Great Rann and it is difficult to distinguish between the land and skyline . Tourists are not  allowed beyond this point  as being very close to the Pakistan & India International border.One can see the India Bridge built over the marshy land.This is a small neck of water channel that connects the Rann with Arabian Sea, it is from here most of monsoon tides spill over on to Rann. Army unit stationed here keeps a vigil round the clock for any undesired movement in the Rann .

Kalo Dungar , Kutch , Gujarat


 

View of Great Rann from Kalo Dungar


On top there is a temple  dedicated to the Lord Dattatrey  the holy Trimurti ( Trinity) of Brahma (Creator), Vishnu (Protector) and Mahesh/Shiv (Destroyer) in one body. Twice in a day, wild Jackals are offered boiled-rice as  Prasad  this ritual is being followed  for over four centuries , Jackals really comes by a very interesting sound screams Ang Leo by the Local Pujaari,   Prasad is distributed only after feeding the Jackals .

Lord Dattatreya temple, kalo Dungar, Kutch , Gujarat


Legend about Jackal feeding is , once Lord Dattatrey  stopped at Kalo Dungar and saw a pac of hungry Jackals  , Lord offered his body parts to feed them and the body keep regenerating the parts . Another legend is once there was a King who did penance at Kalo Dungar , Lord Dattatrey wanted to test him and appeared in front of him as a hungry Jackal and asked for food , the King prepared boiled rice and offered to them , the Jackal said we are flesh eaters and can’t eat the rice , to this the King offered  flesh from his own body , Lord Dattatrey pleased with the devotion blessed the King and since then Jackals are fed boiled rice twice every day.
 

Wolves feeding point, Kalo Dungar, Kutch , Gujarat


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Sindhu Ghat , Leh , Ladakh

Sindhu Ghat is situated at 10 km up stream the Indus River from Leh near the Shey , it is a peaceful river bank   The Sindhu          ( Indus ) river originates near Mansarover lake and  Mt. Kailash in Tibet enters in to India and flows through the Leh Valley and the enters into Pakistan , Sindhu is Sanskrit word and its translation is ” Large water Body” . The importance of this river to us is it has given our country the name India and people living here are called the Hindu which is the distorted name of Sindhu in the Arab world. It is one of the seven most sacred rivers in India .
 

Sindhu (Indus) Ghat Leh


Sindhu Darshan festival is celebrated every year on Guru Purnima ( Full moon of June)  Festival which takes place over three days every year is the perfect time to visit the remote regions of Leh and Ladakh. The Ghat is in Shey Manla, about  8 km from Leh. People travel for a Darshan and Puja of the River Sindhu (Indus), this festival is also a symbolic salute to the brave soldiers of India who have bravely fought the odds at Siachin, Kargil & other places. Mr. Lal Krishan Adwani( then Dy. Prime Minister) who migrated from Sindh in 1947  now in Pakistan, visited Leh in 1995  he started the Sindhu Darshan Abhiyan as Sindhi’s worship Indus ( Sindhu).  Festival was first time organized in the year 1997 and now it is a regular feature . In 2006, this popular spring festival of Ladakh was renamed ‘Ladakh Singhey Khabab Spring Festival’ to bring in more Ladakhi flavor and local involvement. The ceremony is conducted by a joint association of Ladakh Buddhist Association, Shia Majlis, Sunni Anjuman, Christian Moravian Church, Hindu Trust and Sikh Gurudwara Prabhandak Committee. As a part of the ritual, fifty senior Lamas conduct a prayer on the banks of the river.
 

Sindhu ( Indus ) River and snow cap mountains Leh


 
The Greeks called it Sinthus , Romans called it Sindus,  Chinese called it Sintow and Persians called it Ab-e-Sindh , It originates from Tibet enters into India and flows in between the Himalayas and Karakoram , it enters into Pakistan in the Baltistan region flowing through the Skardu , having tributaries from Hindukush , Gilgit and  Naga parbat, Jhelem meets in Kashmir of Pakistan side  it enters Pakistan Punjab plains where it meets Ravi , Satluj and Vyas rivers before meeting the Arabian Sea at Karachi forming the Delta in Sindh .
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‘Leh’ Jayenge ‘Leh’ Jayenge – Let’s go to Leh!

Frozen lake along Chang La [pass]

Pangong Tso Panorama

When friend Anil Rajput knew that I was planning on two options for this summer holiday, Conoor in Tamil Nadu and Leh, his shocking expression was ….”What comparison! You must go only to Leh!”.
I was desperate for a date with Leh for the last four years, but my travel team was giving me the most impossible rates and dates. Anil came to my rescue and made our dream-plan, a reality!
Our Delhi friend Anjali quickly decided to join us and more the merrier it was!
With a lot of anticipation spiced up, wife Jayashree, daughter Nishkamya and I set off from Chennai by the evening SpiceJet to Delhi. Night halt was at Anjali’s place and catching up with years and years of talk, we then hit the Delhi airport at 4am for the Go Air check-in. Prompt to take off, we had a very comfortable touchdown at the Kushok Bakula Rinpoche Airport at Leh, on the dot at 8.15 am. I am sure you are aware that it is the highest altitude commercial airport in India at some 3500 metres. Jayashree rightly quipped, “There is no great height for the plane to descend here at Leh!” …